For this project, I decided to make a topographical map model of the flatirons and form it into a layered, wooden clock.
I took screenshots of a topographical map of the flatirons and traced a few different elevation levels in Rhino. Then, I extruded these different levels into .25 inch thickness shapes. Then I layered the levels in order of lowest elevation on bottom to highest elevation on top and modeled some clock hands on the very top piece. You will see up top, some screenshots of my piece modeled with an environment for Lab 4. After this mock-up model was done, I took only the model for my clock and created a new Rhino doc. I then exploded my clock into each different layer and got rid of any mock-up clock hands I had used for the modeling process. I bought a clock hand kit with a battery power quartz built in time keeper. Once I received this clock kit, I measured out all of its dimensions and cut out the dimensions out of my layers where necessary so the clock kit fits nested inside my clock. I also cut out a hole in the top piece so the top piece would be pinned between the clock hands and the kit box. After this, I converted my layers into 2-D curves for the laser cutter to read.
The fabrication process consisted of me buying (way too much) wood (because Boulder Lumber didn't sell anything less than a 4x8 in birch). I had to have the Boulder Lumber workers help me cut down this piece enough to at least fit in my car. I then had to cut down this wood into a size big enough that could fit in the laser cutter, which Camila helped me with. The actual laser cutting process didn't take that long. I then took these pieces and sanded off the laser burns on the sides so the top sides of my layers looked nice and clean. Then, I put spray shellac on my pieces, let it dry, then put the clock kit inside the layers and glued each layer on. My only mistake and thing I need to fix going forward is that my top layer didn't cover the cut out box for the clock kit. This gives my clock an unprofessional look I think. But for a first iteration, I think it went very smoothly! I really enjoyed this process and am planning to make more clocks out of the excess wood I still have!
For this project, I decided to make a topographical map model of the flatirons and form it into a layered, wooden clock. I took screenshots of a topographical map of the flatirons and traced a few different elevation levels in Rhino.
Then, I extruded these different levels into .25 inch thickness shapes. Then I layered the levels in order of lowest elevation on bottom to highest elevation on top and modeled some clock hands on the very top piece. I then added some environmental mock up models for the environment I see my clock living in...a living room!
I then took this model into Rhino and put materials I saw fit for my different modeled pieces to make them look as real as I could. I had a lot of issues with setting up my environment as none of the programmed backgrounds fit my scene. I tried looking online for some backgrounds I could use instead, but came up with nothing that would work whether it was low quality, cost money or the scene didn't match my needed scenery. I look forward to making this clock into a physical object, I like the way it turned out in my model!
3-D Print 1
For my first 3D modeled object, I decided to make a small cup. I wanted to make it more complicated than just a simple cup so I decided to engrave my name around the outside and my initial on the inside. This turned out to be much harder than I had anticipated it would be! I spent a long time struggling to figure out how to line of the letters just right along the extruded, taper and curved edge of the cup. I also struggled with extruding the letters correctly. The thing I struggled with the most was what tool to use to cut the letters out of the surface of the cup. Boolean difference made the most logical sense to me to cut out the letters, but Boolean Union was the command that actually ended up working, after I messed around with joining together the extruded curves and surfaces of the letters as for some reason only the curves would extrude, even when I extruded the surface of the letters. After much time and effort I ended up cutting out all of the letters except the E. For some reason my E was stuck to my cup and I could undo the union after the fact so it ended up being extruded from the surface. I learned a lot struggling through this piece and feel like I know Rhino a lot better now! In the printing process, I played with changing the color of the plastic being printed, and I did like how it turned out. Much more exciting than a single colored object.
3-D Print 2
This piece was intended to be a guitar shaped bottle opener with my initial carved into it. This however is not what ended up being printed. I struggled for a long time with this piece as well as I extruded my surface of the drawn out guitar shape but it once again, like my first model, only extruded the edges of of the surface (i.e. the curve). I tried capping it and then cutting out my initial which went fine but when I went to go print the object, it wasn't watertight. I capped it and everything and searched online for a long time on how to troubleshoot an object that I couldn't get watertight with no luck. I even tried remaking the shape from scratch, with no luck. I ended up just creating the extruded curve into a solid object and printed that. The object now is so flimsy that it would never be able to be a functioning bottle opener. In the printing process, I played with changing the color of the plastic being printed again.
3-D Print 3
I modeled this object with the intent for it to be a functioning bowl. I didn't have any issues with making this on Rhino, but once I printed it I realized I printed it way to small it hold really anything and also made the fill of the plastic too thin to be hold liquid. In the printing process, I played with changing the color of the plastic being printed again.
Since this was the first time I have unrolled and then re-rolled physically an object, I decided to keep my shape simple so I could really understand how this process works. So, I decided to model a sphere. I printed my object on printer paper and sized as so as the laser cutter was broken. This made my object extremely small and thus very hard to cut/fold. But I did it! It looks pretty weird and squished. I learned that I need thicker material and my object printed larger next time I do this.
The object I decided to focus on for this project was a vase. I modeled a simple vase form using a circle and Sweep-2. I originally was going to model a table and in my Part B of this project, I decided to make a vase to go on the table for its environment. I ended up liking the vase better and thus decided to focus on the vase! I 3-D printed my vase with no problem and thought it was really cool that it can actually hold water and a tiny flower!
Cutting this shape out of cardboard was a whole different animal. I used two pieces of cardboard and cut all my pieces out-65 pieces. This was the easy part. I decided to be fancy and splice my object sideways to make it more interesting and different than my 3-D printed model of it. However, this made it extremely difficult to understand how to put together from flat rings of cardboard. For my first time putting an object together out of cardboard I wish I made it a little easier on myself to just understand the process, but I did enjoy the challenge. I think I messed up the orientation of the rings when putting it together so I don't think it came out as slicer intended it too. But, even though it didn't come out as planned, it still looks cool!
Here is my environment for my vase. Originally my environment for my table but plans changed and it still works! I attempted making the chair curved, but ran into lots of road blocks so I settled for a straight edged chair. I got good at Boolean Union while making these objects.
And here are my three joints! The first one was my fun one, deciding to turn a Ying Yang into a joint. The second one was a pretty easy joint to make as well. I used circles, lines and split and join to create both of these joints. The last joint was my 90 degree angle one. I wanted to make it able to turn and lock, so I measured the thickness of my wood and made a slit in one piece that would fit the extrusion from the other piece in it. I also made a circle bigger than the thickness of my wood so you would be able to turn and lock the extruded piece. After laser cutting, I realized that the extruded piece slides back and forth throughout the entire slot because the entire slot is the width of the wood. I realize now that I should've made the circle in the center the size of my wood so the piece could turn, but the rest of the slit smaller than the wood so it wouldn't be able to move around and it would stay in place. It was a cool experience learning a lot in the hands on portion of the creation of these joints. The real world is a lot different than Rhino!
The first part of this assignment was pretty easy, it was mainly messing around with the different curve functions that Rhino offered. It helped me get to know the software and also taught me I need to be much more organized when moving forward in Rhino, because things can get really messy really fast!
This exercise was cool as I got to take curves I had already worked with and turn those 2D shapes into 3D shapes. My favorite functions I worked with were "Sweep1" and "Sweep2". I loved how they turned a simply circle or square into this elaborate object. I also liked how you could trace the circle or square up along the rails you sweeped the object around and see how the shape was made. These functions inspired the object I created for 3D printing.
This part of the lab is where things got a little tricky to figure out. I made some interesting shapes such as the top right, bottom shape, that came out really cool because I messed up the function and something weird happened. The cage edit (bottom left) was really hard to figure out how to use but it was cool once I figured it out. The functions I learned in this part helped me create my 3D model of an actual object, especially the Boolean functions.
This is my 3D object, both in Rhino and printed. I used the "Sweep2" function with one perfect circle. I tried a few different rail curves until I was satisfied with the final shape of the object. I capped off the swept curve to make it water tight and ready to be printed. I had to scale my print down a bit because originally it was going to take 4 hours! I scaled it down so the print took about an hour. I'm very happy with the way it came out and am pleasantly surprised that the object can stand up the way I intended to.
For the 3D modeling of an actual object, I chose a pepper shaker. I thought this would be a good challenge while also not choosing an object that would be way out of my knowledge to build. I used the taper extrude to pull up the shape I modeled around the top of the shaker (top middle). I then cut the holes in the top out and used Boolean difference to get the top bump and bottom ledge accurate. I was very proud of my little addition of the tiny ball in the center of the top bump, made with Boolean difference as well. The holes took the longest to get right as I somehow ended up with far too many circles and they kept cutting out of the bottom when I didn't intend them too. Overall I am really happy with the way it turned out and am proud it came out looking so close to the original object!
Welcome to my progress blog for my Form course at the University of Colorado, Boulder. Enjoy watching my process as my ideas become a reality.